Charlotte Knowles is now Knwls. On a call from London, the designer said the new name is meant to suggest a brand rather than a single person, describing the mash-up of consonants as “intentionally cryptic.” Knowles isn’t going anywhere, but she also isn’t trying to take credit as the label’s sole leader. For starters, she designs the collections with her partner, Alexandre Arsenault, and their team has grown significantly in the past year. (Knowles also joked that she never really had time to think about what to call her label; she was showing at London Fashion Week within a few months of graduating from Central Saint Martins.)
More importantly, the new moniker also reflects Knowles and Arsenault’s confidence in their brand’s potential: They see Knwls growing into a global, fully-fledged ready-to-wear label that will offer women a complete wardrobe—not just corsets and underpinnings.
Fall 2021 was a big step in that direction. The duo pointed out their first outerwear pieces, a luxe shaved shearling bomber and distressed leather coat, and an expanded range of structured handbags. At first glance, the clothes almost looked demure—for this label, at least—with considerably less exposed skin or lingerie. But zoom in and you’ll see the corsets and bras are still there; they’ve just been creatively layered under criss-crossing mesh tops, sheer dresses, and soft cardigans. Many pieces came in an abstract cat print or leopard spots, in part inspired by the Knwls team’s shared love of cats. There was a feline slinkiness in the scarf-tied dresses, lean flares, and, of course, the full-body catsuits. But the collection’s title, “Feral,” implied something fiercer: the untamed feeling of breaking free from our year-plus in lockdown, like a cat escaping its domestic confines. It’s precisely what Knwls girls are itching for, and these are the kinds of clothes they’ll wear to re-emerge: sexy, unapologetic, and yet surprisingly comfortable. Knowles put it better: “wild elegance.”
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April 27, 2021 at 07:40PM
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KNWLS Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection - Vogue.com
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